A.J. Walker

ReAleLiverpool

New Newcastle

Think it’s been over thirty years since I’ve been to Newcastle (yes, I'm THAT old), but last week I finally made it back. It’s about three hours fifteen or so to get there by a direct train (similar to driving time) and I booked a cheap night in a hotel in Gateshead (thirty odd quid). My pub research involved simply messaging a couple of people who were either from that neck of the woods and/or were regular visitors (a lot more regular than once every thirty years at any rate).

The bus strike that was due to be on at the weekend in Liverpool had been cancelled so getting to Lime Street wasn’t as problematic as it had been the week before (which had required catching multiple Arrivas rather than the usual one Stagecoach). The train was on time and pretty full. Trying to find a ‘Green Light’ seat for one not reserved was a bit of a battle and the game was on at every station when new travellers got on board. It was a nice trip though with no issues and plenty of lovely views of the northern English countryside. The train left Liverpool on time and arrived in Newcastle on time too. Nice. Timetables, hey! Who knew they weren't always works of fiction or aspirational?

I’m usually pretty good at finding my way around. But when you first get somewhere it helps to stop and sense where you are and ID the directions to a few places early doors. So that is my excuse for walking sod all distance across the road from the railway station to one of the closest pubs: the Newcastle Tap (a Pivovar pub). I wasn’t aiming to get to the hotel until later on as I didn’t really need to get in there and then get back out to Newcastle later. So I soon formulated a rough plan which involved getting down to towards the river/bridge end of Bigg Market before heading on over a bridge to Gateshead to some hostelries there. I would of course be taking advice from customers and bar staff along the way; local knowledge is a valuable commodity.

20240712_144244
Dog Leap Stairs - and who can blame them?

GridArt_20240723_065053526
Newcastle Tap, Crown Posada (what a beautiful drop!), Redhouse, and Bridge Tavern

It was a pint of ‘
Sheaf Street Pale’ from Track Brewing at the Newcastle Tap and the fleshy bones of plan were made. Next up was to be the famous Crown Posada down the Bigg towards the iconic bridge. The walk wasn’t particularly long, but it did involve some precipitous steps which challenged my knees and resolve (just a fortnight after my first physio appointment to look at my interesting knees). I suppose the steps down have the advantage over a curving sloping street in that the are handrails (just in case of any worrying wobbliness). As you can see—I’ve typed this up—I survived the first great grand northern knee challenge.

Not far from the bottom of the steps (which were signposted ‘
Dog Leap Stairs’ not Andy Fell Here Stairs) was the lovely old and narrow bar that is the Crown Posada. Had a nice chat with a few locals about things beer and pub related and to the barman. Had my first and far from last Two by Two beer of the trip (‘Pale’) and my first Flying Gang, ‘Liars Dice,’ oh and my first Almasty, ‘Air Walk’.

It was a great pub but I couldn’t stay beyond three—could I? Well maybe, but I didn’t. I headed around the corner closer still to the Bridge into the Redhouse. I had a complete flashback to the time I was in Newcastle all those decades ago. Amazingly at the bar I found there was a beer on from Liverpool, ‘
Baritone’ from Colbier. They’ve only been going a few months so it seemed amazing to see it all that way from home. Welcomed a couple to join me at the table and we ended up chatting about weekends away (and beer, of course).

20240712_155509

20240712_170744
Those Scousers get everywhere Colbier and Neptune in successive Bigg Market pubs.

Next was just out the door and a very short walk to the Bridge Tavern. And lo! It was another Liverpool drink, a Neptune ‘
Forecast.’ It was 5pm and a Friday so it was pretty loud and busy in there. Just had the one, again, and I headed back up those Dog Leap Stairs to cross over the High Level Bridge to Gateshead.

Not far over the bridge was the a lovely micro pub: Microbus. The weather was such that I sat outside too with my pint of Turning Point ‘
Stuck in a Metaphor' and chatted to a couple of local Likely Lads. Just around the corner from Microbus is a nice old traditional pub, The Central Bar. It was time for another Two by Two ‘Pale’ here. I’d been recommended to head to one of the rooms at the back of the bar which were worth dropping into. I ended up with a room to myself too (the front bar was busy).

Finally for the day, very close by, was Station East. I had a Hadrian’s ‘
Northern Pale’ here. Decided to make a cautious retreat from the pub when things got a little weird with a couple and their mate. People sometimes make a pub, sometimes they can fook it up too.

GridArt_20240723_065156850
Microbus, Central, and Station East

It was an odd end to the beery expedition section of the day, it was time to head to my hotel. The bus stop was just around the corner. The bus trip was interesting. I rang the bell as it approached the stop I wanted and the bus proceeded to careen past my stop. The following one was the terminus (about half a mile from my hotel). I asked the driver why she didn’t stop, “I heard the bell, but it goes off all the time. Didn’t think anybody wanted to get off…’.

At the terminus I was told by driver a couple of bus options heading back my way. One was there just a few minutes later. I pressed the large button for the door to open up at the appropriate gate, and it was broken. The door wouldn’t open. Through the plexiglass I saw the bus reverse out of the bay and drive off with nobody able to get on. I was beginning to feel a little pissed off by the whole bus situation. I got on the next one with relief and got into the tired hotel tired. The bus people hadn’t wrecked my day completely, they’d just made it worse than brilliant—which I guess isn’t that bad.

Saturday started with an unusable shower. Not the best start after traipsing through the hotel to get there. It seemed in keeping with her buses the night before. Onwards and upwards. It was more important to get a decent breakfast down me. After speaking to the barman at the Crown Posada, and doing some verification online, I’d decided on the Quay Ingredient, just across the road from the Bridge Tavern. It was pissing down. Rather than walk down those damnable Dog Steps I walked down a steep road nearby. In hindsight the steps would have been better—they have rails.

I found the Quay Ingredient easily, unfortunately it had already been found by lots of others and was packed. Rather than wait for a space I volunteered to sit outside despite the rain: one of the two tables outside was relatively dry thanks to the road bridge above it. It was certainly a wonderful breakfast. The bacon and mushrooms were lovely, but the two poached eggs… gawd they were delicious. Can’t remember the last time I hadn’t had fried eggs to be honest. The service and the food was exemplary, and plenty of people walked away rather than wait; they really should have waited.

GridArt_20240723_064836767
Quay Ingredient breakfast

GridArt_20240723_064706524
Newcastle photos that weren't beer or pub related—whilst waiting hopefully for a bus.

So my day was set up and it was time to move on. First up was to be the Free Trade Inn a short bus ride to the east. The thick misty rain was still going when I walked to the nearest (very) bus stop. A bus was just passing as I go there, which turned out to be the bus I wanted. Ho hum. Twenty minutes until the next one, so I took the opportunity to walk along the riverside to the next stop so I could at least see a bit more of the city than the four walls of a pub—and the disappointing buses.

I got to the Free Trade Inn in good time (around 11:30) and had a couple of pints (Fyne Ales ‘
Jarl’ and Burning Sky ‘Aurora’). It was all but empty when I arrived but soon enough people were coming in for one or more than one. It was both popular with regulars and visitors that were seeking it out.

GridArt_20240723_065311982
Free Trade Inn, Town Mouse, Mean-Eyed Cat

Walking back over a road ‘bridge’ (not over the river, but just a steep section of general physical geography) it was back on to the same bus route I came in on (a No.3 I think) it was back westward toward the city. I was to get the bus to the end of the route to pick up some more pubs in the centre and then walk down to the station and ultimately back to Liverpool.

The Town Mouse was next among my recommendations from friends and colleagues. Took me a while to find it as I didn’t realise it was a basement micro pub and I was walking too and fro looking up and not down. Got there in the end—was probably two or three minutes but it felt like a lifetime-ish in the wet Tyneside rain. The barman in the Town Mouse was welcoming and giving me recommendations on places to go to. And the rain still rained. Started with an Elusive Brewing ‘
Oregon Trail’ which was nice but not one to repeat (abv wise) so early in the day so followed up once more with another Two by Two, this time a ‘Summer Pale.’

No more buses were needed now. Thankfully. It was a pretty short walk (in the rainy rain) to the Mean-Eyed Cat. It was a bright place and had nice beer choices. Ended up with a Flying Gang once more, this time it was ‘
All Fours.’ What with the run of pubs of mice and cats I supposed all fours was inevitable.

20240713_150214
Anyone see I mean-eyed cat around here?

Heading back towards the station the next pub was to be the Wobbly Duck (still animal related but no longer one on all fours). Took a tiny detour as one thing that Newcastle suffers from is the multiple levels of the place. Google Maps finds it difficult; don’t sit beneath a bridge and ask Google for directions. When I did get to the square with the Wobbly Duck on the Google map wasn’t helping much. I almost asked a policeman for directions. The poor bobby was stood there on his lonesome next to a load of large deckchairs set up for a big screen showing the Women’s Wimbledon Final. Not sure whether the rain made any difference, but not one person was watching the tennis; there was just the copper with his back to it looking resigned (and possibly considering it).

The Wobbly Duck once again was a basement level bar. Had a nice vibe and chatted to a few people there. Didn’t take any photos and I have no idea what I drank. I dare say it may have been a Two by Two if I was a gambling man. I don't write these things down, I'm not so much a ticker and as photographic record kinda guy.

The final stop was to be the Centurion Bar in the railway station. Had a Hadrian Border ‘
Northern IPA’ there before getting the train back. I was on time, and the train was on time. Basically the buses had been a bit of a nightmare over the weekend, but the trains had all been fine; maybe even dandy.

20240713_175513
Centurion's Bar. Cheers, Newcastle. You've been ace.

It may have been thirty years since my last visit, but it wont be thirty more until the next one. Probably not anyway. Thank you Newcastle (apart from your bus drivers) you were a blast (if a slightly damp one).

A CAMRA Trip to Chesterfield

On Saturday it was my first CAMRA beer trip for some time. As the Liverpool branch don't do them anymore it was left to the Wirral branch to wish me of to Chesterfield for an afternoon of ales in Derbyshire. It took some investigation work by Geoff on his phone to discover when we last came here with the Liverpool coach party and it was 2015. That had been one of Tony's epic multi stop trips which actually only gave us a couple of hours in Chesterfield itself—which may explain why we didn't remember many of the pubs in the city itself.

Spire
The obligatory picture of the crooked spire.

Dave had done his investigations online into where to go and gave a detailed breakdown of what kind of beers to expect in each pub and distance (in Google map minutes) from the coach station to each pub. Unfortunately the pubs are distributed largely in a straight line along one of the main roads, which while making navigation relatively straightforward didn't give us a nice circular route from start to end. I ended up in a nice little group including two of the former Liverpool Committee grandees back when I was involved (largely doing the branch website).

We headed first to one of the nearest pubs just up from the coach station by the market—and so it was indeed called the Market. They had Jaipur on. Normally if I see it I get it, but it is not ideal for a first up pint (that doesn't always stop me, as evidenced by any visit to Sheffield station). I ended up with a lighter ABV pale 'Deception' from Abbeydale. The service was good and the food looked excellent in there, but that wasn't what we there for. We spent some time looking at the map and working on the next pubs to go to, along with chats on lots of other things (far too many unfortunately on health issues of people present and not—ho hum).

First Up
First pub of the day - The Market

Next up was just a five minute straight and flat walk along to the Pig & Pump. The walk took us directly past St Mary and All Saints, Chesterfield's parish church—the famous one with the crooked spire. Of course I took the obligatory photo. The pub was a large place with some nice beers on but most were a bit on the higher ABV side and again there was Jaipur and again I decided I'd leave it until later and went for a Kelham Island Pale Rider instead—barely recognisable on the pump with the new clip design. The weather was lovely and we sat outside in the sun (a bit too warm for some) just across from the church.

Next up was set up to be the Chesterfield Alehouse. But muggins here had put The Junction in the Google maps and failed to update it to the Alehouse and so—unfocussed due to chatting and following Google Maps—we walked straight past the micropub. We decided to carry on to the Junction and go to the Chesterfield on the way back—one advantage of the pubs being along one road was we'd have to go back past it anyway. It also serendipitously meant we could sit outside.


AscotHat
Donning the Ascot headgear in the Junction.

Again we sat in the sun we sat outside the Junction by the water (okay, hidden by the wall, but we were by the water). Headgear may have been advisable in the sunshine but Ascot hats may have been OTT. There were only three casks on (and no Jaipur this time) and I went for a pale ale from Bradfield Brewery.

BramptonBeerHouse
The Brampton Bierhuis

Slightly (barely) off the main road in Chatsworth Business Park was the Brampton Bierhuis. Not much room outside for drinking but I think we'd had enough sun for the day anyway. It is the site of Brampton Brewery and I went for a Tudor Rose. They had a fabulous selection of Belgian ales in bottles and Belgian keg too.

A Nod to Leicester
A nod to Leicester with a pint of Tiger.

Back on the main road (Chatsworth Road) and it was only a short hop to the Tramway Tavern. The beer choice was not fabulous, but there was Everard's Tiger on which was one of my beers when at the University of Leicester. It turned out Jean went to Leicester Unit too. I may have known that once, but who knows the mist of time takes memories hither and thither I find. So the two of us made a nod to our Alma Mater. Cheers!

Then it was just another few mins down the road to the Tap House for a our furthest pub west along the road before heading back to the coach—via the Chesterfield Arms where we had our final drink of the trip just a short walk to the coach. I never did get a Jaipur after seeing it at the first two pubs, isn't that always the way? Anyways it had been a good day in the sun with pints and fine people. It was great to bump into so many familiar faces on the coach. I need to get on some of the next ones. Up next is Lichfield on 17th August then a trip to Chorley on 26th October. We shall see.


Pubs visited:

Market
Pig & Pump
The Junction
Brampton Bierhuis
Tramway Tavern
Tap House
Chesterfield Alehouse

I may add a map later…

A Festival of My Own is a Crawl

Didn’t make it to the Beer Expo at Black Lodge Brewery last weekend but I did make it to quite a few pubs around Liverpool in its stead, including; The Vines, Grapes, Doctor Duncans, Dispensary, Ship & Mitre, Excelsior, Vernon, Rigby’s, Denbigh Castle, Lion Tavern, Belvedere, White Hart, Engineer, Queen of Hope Street. Not a bad crawl really and it was a festival in itself—though it was spread over a few days (of course).

The weather was kind to the festival goers (after the epic sky battle that hit it on the Saturday last year) and all the people I know who went had a reliably great time. I got a bit damp on Sunday with the heavy evening rain. But I’ll live. Had some nice beers, met some good people and had a fine time—even some nice food from One Pan Band at the Ship and a Scouse Pie in the QOHS. All in all a good weekend: apart from the hearing the news about Alan Hansen, which brought me down a bit—fingers crossed he battles through whatever the issue is. What a player—and he was playing at Anfield the first time I went to a game there in the early 80s.

Anyway, whilst beer festivals have their place—and some have large and loyal followings—remember folks that the pubs are there when the festival is gone. Go and support the pubs when you can or you may not have the opportunity in year—or months—to come. Drink responsibly, drink in pubs…

A Shrewsbury Stroll

I didn’t think it was that long ago that I went to Shrewsbury but it was last May and on a damn hot day. A largely greyer colder day this time, but it was dry and there were moments of blue sky. On the train the land all the way from Liverpool to Shrewsbury was wet to the point of flooding in much of Cheshire and Shropshire. It’s been a very wet couple of months after all. Last time I went I visited twelve pubs, which is more than my usual visit crawl. I think eight is about my usual.

There was no planning this time—as usual lately. To be fair when I got up I’d considered going to several other towns, but again with the speed of getting there (I generally aim for 1.5 hours or so each way) it was attractive. As it happened it was almost ballsed up by a Stagecoach driver at the very start, She’d taken over on the bus just past my first stop and got confused about which way to go. She ended up driving back towards Fazakerley Hospital where the bus had just come from. After some shouting from many of the passengers she realised the error or her ways (literally) but had to continue up to the hospital to turn. Suffice to say this accidental diversion meant I missed my train and had to go for a later one… Still I was lucky with the trains I ended up taking and it didn't much impact on my day out.

A Macclesfield Trip

On Monday I took a trip out to Macclesfield for the first time under my own steam (well using the railway to be fair). The last time I was in Macclesfield for beers it was on one of the Liverpool CAMRA coach trips—not exactly sure when, but those trips stopped eons ago (if I look up some old photos I dare say I wont have a beard and indeed the photos will be sepia toned).

xCglW
On the way. Piccadilly for the Doncaster train

It’s not a bad distance from Liverpool and easily accessible by train with relatively regular departures from Lime Street requiring a change at Piccadilly. The whole journey takes less than 90 minutes.

Didn’t do too much research (none) into where to go at all before making the trip. I knew there were plenty of ale pubs in a short distance from the station. I could make my plans once in the town and then just go with the flow. Started in the Waters Green Tavern, which is a stones throw from the station. They had three of their hand pulls on (out of many more) because it was a Monday after all. They had Sarah Hughes’s mild on but I wasn’t going to start the day of with a 6% ale. Ended up going for an Ossett
Most instead. Checked a few webpages and maps out and picked an approximate route to go on. As it happened that was almost straight along the road parallel with the rail line (Sunderland Street).

Qdhui
Waters Green Tavern

IMG_20240219_152239_342#1
George & Dragon (Robinsons)

Second up I headed over the road to the Old Millstone which you can’t miss as you head out of the pub (or indeed the station). It had been a recommended pub on one webpage, but it proved only to have two (currently) unused pulls, so it was a walk in and an about turn. Crossing back over the road I’d just left I head back onto Sunderland Street where there were to be several options on the day. I headed into the first open pub I got to (the Queens was shut) which was a Robinson’s pub, the George & Dragon. There were just two taps on which were both Robinson’s of course. I ended up with a
Dizzy Blonde. It had a nice feel about the place and a mix of old regulars and a couple of passers by like me.

gZsm3
The Jolly Sailor

Third was straight down the road—after passing the Treacle Tap, which didn’t open to later (3pm)—and a nice old pub called the Jolly Sailor. It was all national brands (Tim Taylors, Wainwright, Black Sheep etc). Ended up with a Boltmaker and had a good chin wag with a local and the (I assume) landlord. You could see the next pub through the window, which was The Fountain. This is now a Bollington Brewery pub. They had six hand pulls and ten keg lines. I had (shock horror) a keg
Fictions-Flat White. A very drinkable coffee pale (must be the rage these days).

g91fO
The Fountain (a Bollington Bar)

XZefN
A keg up

SWwMS
Redwillow (next to the Fountain). Unfortunately closed on Mondays.

I had been looking forward to going to the Redwillow bar next door. But unfortunately I discovered it is closed on Mondays. Unlucky! (maybe a wee Google search earlier would have avoided my disappointment. Then again I'd have just been disappointed earlier on instead. Anyway just up the hill a little (opposite a Wetherspoons) is Alfreds, a Hydes pub. Ended up with an
Original there—one of their two hand pulls. It’s a bright roomy place and there were a few people in there. I decided to head back to the Treacle Tap. Had a nice chinwag with the couple working there. It is a Buxton Brewery pub (Buxton is about 12 miles east of Macclesfield). Had a pint of Deepdale, a gluten free session IPA.

sU6KX
A Hydes pint in Alfreds

I decided to go to just one more pub, the Castle. This is a nice old two room pub just back by the station—slightly up hill from Waters Green Tavern and the Millstone. If I’d had more inclination to have a couple more I would have headed further round to R&G’s Beer Vault or maybe back to Waters Green for a Sarah Hughes. I thought better of it this time. I’ll be back some other time (and next time not on a Monday so I can go to Redwillow).

hPsN6
Treacle Tap (a Buxton Brewery bar)

LTrmk
The Treacle Tap

IMG_20240219_175200_057 copy
Last, but not least, The Castle

In summary a nice few pubs a short trip rom Liverpool. Definitely worth checking out.

The pubs I visited this time, in order, were:

Waters Green Tavern
George & Dragon
Jolly Sailor
Fountain
Alfred’s
Treacle Tap
Castle